<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd"
xmlns:rawvoice="http://www.rawvoice.com/rawvoiceRssModule/"
	>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Checking A Classic Power Supply</title>
	<atom:link href="http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/</link>
	<description>Fix The Game, Play The Game</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 22 May 2012 21:35:29 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.5.2</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jonathan Leung</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-3978</link>
		<dc:creator>Jonathan Leung</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 18:13:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-3978</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[John,

This is a great observation. We really haven&#039;t thought about that before but we know that every Pac Man that we&#039;ve installed a switching power supply in has not created the burned contact problem. Perhaps there is someone out there that can shed a little more light as to why this is the case. If it is true, this is just another reason to convert your older arcade games over to switching power supplies.

We have also featured your comment on episode 22 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on this issue. Thank you for your comment and good luck with your future repairs.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>John,</p>
<p>This is a great observation. We really haven&#8217;t thought about that before but we know that every Pac Man that we&#8217;ve installed a switching power supply in has not created the burned contact problem. Perhaps there is someone out there that can shed a little more light as to why this is the case. If it is true, this is just another reason to convert your older arcade games over to switching power supplies.</p>
<p>We have also featured your comment on episode 22 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on this issue. Thank you for your comment and good luck with your future repairs.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: john</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-3516</link>
		<dc:creator>john</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jan 2011 02:29:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-3516</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[pacman boards are known for having burned contacts. i was wondering if the ac voltage and not dc going to the board is the cause of that. would going to a switching power supply eliminate this problem. thanks]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>pacman boards are known for having burned contacts. i was wondering if the ac voltage and not dc going to the board is the cause of that. would going to a switching power supply eliminate this problem. thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jonathan Leung</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-3143</link>
		<dc:creator>Jonathan Leung</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Nov 2010 01:25:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-3143</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Brian,

With any luck, the lightning strike that your Galaga machine received just popped a fuse and didn&#039;t damage your power supply. Check your fuses to make sure that this is the case. If your fuses are good or you replace the fuses and it still doesn&#039;t power on, check the power supply to make sure that it is functioning properly. You can also check your power cord and plug to see if there are any burned parts that might be causing inconsistent power issues. 

We have also featured your question on episode 19 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your question. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Brian,</p>
<p>With any luck, the lightning strike that your Galaga machine received just popped a fuse and didn&#8217;t damage your power supply. Check your fuses to make sure that this is the case. If your fuses are good or you replace the fuses and it still doesn&#8217;t power on, check the power supply to make sure that it is functioning properly. You can also check your power cord and plug to see if there are any burned parts that might be causing inconsistent power issues. </p>
<p>We have also featured your question on episode 19 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your question. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian Moore</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-2825</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Moore</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 Oct 2010 22:48:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-2825</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My OLD galaga machine was fried by a recent lightning strike of a tree near my home.  Now the machine will not power on ?  Any suggestions or is it just toasted?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My OLD galaga machine was fried by a recent lightning strike of a tree near my home.  Now the machine will not power on ?  Any suggestions or is it just toasted?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jonathan Leung</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-1927</link>
		<dc:creator>Jonathan Leung</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Aug 2010 17:22:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-1927</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cameron,

Sounds like you are having some wiring trouble. The best advice we can give you is to get a new power supply and perhaps even a new isolation transformer and rewire your cabinet. You can order these part from Bob Roberts (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.therealbobroberts.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.therealbobroberts.net&lt;/a&gt;) for fairly cheap. We believe that Bob also sells a complete cabinet bottom which includes the power cord, isolation transformer, power supply and more for one price. This might be a better way to go if you don&#039;t want to fool with wiring that yourself. Check out our posts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2009/07/22/checking-and-replacing-a-power-supply/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Checking And Replacing A Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Checking A Classic Power Supply&lt;/a&gt; for more information.

We have also featured your question on episode 14 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your question. Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your progress.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cameron,</p>
<p>Sounds like you are having some wiring trouble. The best advice we can give you is to get a new power supply and perhaps even a new isolation transformer and rewire your cabinet. You can order these part from Bob Roberts (<a href="http://www.therealbobroberts.net" rel="nofollow">http://www.therealbobroberts.net</a>) for fairly cheap. We believe that Bob also sells a complete cabinet bottom which includes the power cord, isolation transformer, power supply and more for one price. This might be a better way to go if you don&#8217;t want to fool with wiring that yourself. Check out our posts on <a href="http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2009/07/22/checking-and-replacing-a-power-supply/" rel="nofollow">Checking And Replacing A Power Supply</a> and <a href="http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/" rel="nofollow">Checking A Classic Power Supply</a> for more information.</p>
<p>We have also featured your question on episode 14 of our Q&amp;A podcast. Please listen to it for more of our thoughts on your question. Thank you for your question and keep us updated on your progress.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cameron</title>
		<link>http://artold.arcaderepairtips.com/2010/06/09/checking-a-classic-power-supply/comment-page-1/#comment-1369</link>
		<dc:creator>Cameron</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Jul 2010 16:59:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/?p=1178#comment-1369</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;m working on a 1993 midway NBA jam TE cab that appears to have the fabled isolation transformer/switching power supply combo. AC lines run into it from an AC filter. It isolates 120 v for the monitor and 120 v for the switching power supply, as well as 5.9 for the coin door lights and what the schematic seems not to want to specify for the light fixture. I need to know how to replace this part or if i even need to. It takes 119.6 v and puts out 132 v to the monitor and switching supply. the switching supply (brand new on I put in) will not light up and takes that 132 v AC and puts out DC - .6v for the -5v and 1.96v for the +5v and then like 2v for the +12v. These are the same on the jamma harness and the CPU doesn&#039;t light up either. will replacing that combo unit with one that puts out 120 fix this issue and give power to the CPU again? Also the monitor comes on now that I stuck a cap kit in it, but--I think because of the 132 v coming to it-- it shows up solid white. This may also be because there is no signal from the board.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m working on a 1993 midway NBA jam TE cab that appears to have the fabled isolation transformer/switching power supply combo. AC lines run into it from an AC filter. It isolates 120 v for the monitor and 120 v for the switching power supply, as well as 5.9 for the coin door lights and what the schematic seems not to want to specify for the light fixture. I need to know how to replace this part or if i even need to. It takes 119.6 v and puts out 132 v to the monitor and switching supply. the switching supply (brand new on I put in) will not light up and takes that 132 v AC and puts out DC &#8211; .6v for the -5v and 1.96v for the +5v and then like 2v for the +12v. These are the same on the jamma harness and the CPU doesn&#8217;t light up either. will replacing that combo unit with one that puts out 120 fix this issue and give power to the CPU again? Also the monitor comes on now that I stuck a cap kit in it, but&#8211;I think because of the 132 v coming to it&#8211; it shows up solid white. This may also be because there is no signal from the board.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
