When you are first starting out in arcade collecting, you might find it difficult to find the arcade games that you want. While sites like eBay and Craigslist have made finding arcade games easier, arcade auctions are still the preferred method of buying machines for many collectors. In this post, we will discuss the entire arcade auction experience from registration to checkout.

The Arcade Auction Experience

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dpi8pMSofo

Before we get into the details of arcade auctions, here’s a list of some arcade auctioneers. Please check their websites to see what areas they service.

• American Amusement Auctions –
  http://www.americanamusementauctions.com/
• Amusement Associates – http://www.amusementassociates.com/
• Auction Game Sales – http://www.auctiongamesales.com/
• Captain’s Auction Warehouse – http://captainsauction.wordpress.com/
• USAmusement Auctions – http://www.usamusement.com/

Now that you have located an arcade auction in your area, let’s talk about when to get there and what to take. Most arcade auctions will post a preview time and an auction start time. It is very important to be there during the preview time so you can walk around and get a feel for what you might be interested in. Most auctions allow you to play and inspect (i.e. look to see if a game has boards, power supply, etc.) the games during this time which will give you a better idea of what you want to spend on them. Some items you might want to take to the auction with you are a long (50 ft) extension cord, your arcade toolbox, a flashlight, a hand truck or dolly, tie down (preferably ratcheting) straps, a tarp or something to cover up the games (just in case in rains between your house and the auction location) and perhaps some food and drinks. While the games are suppose to be on free play, many will have locked coin doors so bring quarters with you to try them out. Clipboards and calculators are good things to have too so you can keep up with how much you’re spending.

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Once you arrive at the auction location, it is time to register as a bidder. It’s a good idea to get your bidder card early as the registration line tends to get longer the closer you get to the auction start time. Be prepared to share some of your personal information along with your method of payment. Cash is a preferred method of payment at most auctions and the only method at some. Be sure to ask them if you are unsure about what payment methods they accept. Some auctions require you to put down a deposit or leave your driver’s license with them for security reasons. If they take your driver’s license, PLEASE remember to retrieve it at the end of the day.

With your bidder card in hand, it’s now time for the auction to start. Please listen very carefully to the terms and conditions which the auctioneer will typically go over right before they auction the first piece. Most auctions will have a buyers premium (an example would be 10%) and sales tax that will be added to the final price. Please keep this in mind when you are bidding. The price that you win the item for is NOT going to be the out-the-door price. If you are a seller, there will typically be a sellers premium that will be deducted from the final price as well. These premiums are how the auctioneers make money. Also, most if not all items are sold as is so keep in mind what you are bidding on.

When the bidding starts, the auctioneer will usually start the item at a very high price to see if anyone bids. If no ones bids on the item, he will continue to drop the price until someone does. If interest in an item is low, the auctioneer might even drop down to one dollar. With that said, it’s best to hold out as long as you can or until another bidder jumps in. To bid on an item, hold up your bidder card. Once you are in the active bidding group, you can just nod to one of the callers and they will usually take your bid. The auctioneer and the callers will try to work the crowd by saying things such as “the first one is always the cheapest” and “this game looks like it just came out of the box.” Of course, they are just saying these things to get you to spend more money. The auctioneer might also say some useful things such as the condition of the game or any bidding rules (such as a reserve price) that are attached to the piece. Keep a listen for these things as they can be very important. Once the auctioneer says SOLD or GONE, no more bids will be taken and the item will go to the last (or winning) bidder.

Here are some general tips to keep in mind as a bidder. If you are interested in a particular game, try to make your way as close to the game as possible so that the callers and auctioneer can see you and you can hear what’s going on. It’s a good idea to have a maximum dollar amount in your head for what you want to spend on a particular game before the auction starts. This will help you avoid auction fever or overbidding on an item. Watch out for shield bidders or sellers that attempt to drive up the price by bidding on their own items. Sellers can usually buy back their items by just paying the auction fees if they don’t think it’s going high enough. If you mistakenly bid on something, notify the auctioneer immediately. This will keep you from getting stuck with an arcade game you do not want. Be careful who you talk to when you are at the auction. If you start talking about a Galaga you are going to bid on where the cord is loose others might hear you. Instead of getting an easily fixed, broken game for $50 you might be in a bidding war with somebody that overheard you talking. Also, many of the big bargain deals are going to be towards the end of the auction. Auctioneers tend to front load the auction with games they know are going to bring big dollars. By the time you get to the end, many people have either got their items and gone home or are out of money. With that said, the bids are usually lower on items towards the end of the auction. So if you want a game for cheap, plan on staying till the end of the auction.

After the auction is over, it’s time to settle up. When you are ready to leave, make your way over to the checkout table at the auction and show them your bidder card. They will present you with your bill and will accept payment at this time. As we discussed earlier, cash is the preferred method of payment. If the auction company does accept credit cards, there will usually be a fee for the transaction. Take our advice, save yourself some money and bring cash. Once you have checked out, you can proceed to loading your games. Most auctions have a time by which you must have your games out of the building. Keep this time in mind if you have to arrange for transportation of your items.

Here are just a couple of tips about checking out. If you are just a buyer, most auctions will let you check out anytime you want so don’t feel obligated to stay till the end. Give them about 30 minutes or so to get your purchases in the system. Once that’s done you can checkout and haul off your items. Sellers will almost always have to stay till the end to get paid. If a game says “with keys” on the tag, make sure you ask at checkout where you can get the keys from. This will save you the hassle of drilling through a lock.

Overall, the arcade auction experience is usually quite fun. It gives you an opportunity to play all kinds of arcade games, pinball machines and other coin operated devices. It also give you an idea of what different arcade games are going for. Please feel free to leave any questions, suggestions or auction experiences in the comments section below.

Whether your an operator or a hobbyist you’ve probably wondered how much it cost to run your arcade games. Electric bills can be a concern of your location owner or your significant other depending on the circumstances. In this post, we will discuss approximately how much it costs to run an arcade game per month.

Arcade Games And Energy Costs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qteT4seCgBU

In our testing, we used a P4400 Kill-A-Watt Electricity Meter by P3 International. This meter outputs the kilowatt-hours used by any device that you plug into it. We used a Donkey Kong arcade machine as our test arcade game. We left it on for 1 hour playing it intermittently during this period. We approximated that we played it about 25 minutes out of that hour. Just as the hour ran up, the kilowatt-hours reading clicked over to 0.09. So we have approximated that this arcade game uses 0.09 kilowatt-hours per hour or 0.09 kWh/hr.

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For our price per kilowatt-hour, we are using $0.12 per kWh or $0.12/kWh as this is the average for residential Texas customers according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration. By multiplying the 0.09 kWh/hr by $0.12/kWh, we find that the cost per hour of running an arcade game is approximately $0.0108 per hour or a little more than a penny. Since most people are billed monthly for their energy use, we can take this figure, multiply it by the number of hours we wish to run the game and then multiply it by 30 days to simulate a month. When we use this formula, we find that if we run an arcade game for 2 hours a day the result would be approximately $0.65 a month. Please see the chart below for the hourly break down per month.

At this point you might be wondering how an arcade game compares to other appliances in your house. We did some research and found that most appliances under normal operation will be more expensive to run than running an arcade game for 2 hours a day. Please see the chart below for some of the numbers we found. These kilowatt-hour monthly usage numbers are taken from the Keys Energy Services website.

As you can see, running an arcade game is not as expensive as most people think. Keep in mind that different arcade games draw more power depending on factors such as the size of the monitor and how the game controls. Please post any questions or suggestion in the comments section below.

There is only so much troubleshooting that we can do from outside an arcade game. In order to fix the majority of arcade game issues, we must be able to access the parts inside the cabinet. In this post, we’ll discuss how to open an arcade cabinet so we can fix any problems that might be plaguing our game.

Opening An Arcade Cabinet

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyze2iYeo1c

You never know what to expect when trying to open an arcade cabinet. Some of the games we’ve seen have had everything from frayed wires to malfunctioning power supplies. This is why we recommend unplugging or turning off your game as a safety precaution. Some arcade games have a safety switch on the door that will automatically turn the power off, however, the previous owner of the game might have disengaged it. Do not take chances! Turn the power off to the game and restore it once you have opened the cabinet and located any potential hazards inside.

First, we want to unlatch our control panel so that we can gain access to our arcade controls. You can gain access to the control panel latches on most arcade cabinets through the service door. Insert your hand into the service door and reach up to the far left and right sides of the control panel. You should feel some latches. These latches hold up the control panel and prevent it from falling down during normal play sessions. You should be able to flip them down to release the tension on the latch. If you release the tension on both latches but the control panel still doesn’t release, check near the top center of the control panel to see if there is a third latch located there. Once you have released all the latches, the control panel should fall or come out giving you access to the arcade controls.

With the control panel folded down or pulled out of the cabinet, you should be able to access the monitor bezel and screen. This is very handy in case you need to replace the bezel or clean the screen. When you take off the bezel, you might notice some bolts that are going into the wood and the monitor frame. These bolts are used for mounting the monitor. If you wanted to remove the monitor, you could unscrew these bolts and pull the monitor out of the front of the cabinet. If you are going to attempt this, make sure that you follow our instructions on Safely Discharging An Arcade Monitor so that you know it is safe to pull out.

Next, we’ll focus on opening up the back of the cabinet. You can remove the back door of an arcade cabinet by either using the key, unscrewing a screw that’s holding it in or drilling out the lock. For more information on drilling out locks please see our post on Replacing A Coin Door Lock. Once we have opened the back door, we should now have access to all of the internal parts of an arcade cabinet. You will usually find the power supply and isolation transformer at the bottom of the cabinet, the PCB or board mounted on the side of the cabinet and the monitor located near the top of the cabinet. There is usually a button located just inside the service door. This button is typically a test mode or service credit button. This can be really handy if you are trying to troubleshoot your game.

Being able to open an arcade cabinet is one of the first steps in learning how to repair an arcade game. While not all arcade cabinets are arranged the same way, the overwhelming majority of them contain the same parts that we have described in this post. Please post any questions or suggestions you might have in the comments section below.

Before you can fix an arcade game, a pinball machine or any electronic device, you have to first accurately analyze the problem. A few tools and a good eye will take you a long way towards performing a professional repair. In this post, we’ll discuss some simple steps you can take when you are starting a repair job.

Step 1: It’s usually easier to determine what is wrong with a game by determining what is right. Are there any signs of life at all? Does the marquee or other lights work? Do you hear the monitor? Does the game play blind? (i.e. the monitor has no picture but you hear sound from the game) If the game is appears to be dead, start simple. Do you have 120 VAC going into your power supply? If your power supply is good, is it supplying the correct voltage (usually 5 VDC and 12 VDC) to you main board and other components?

Step 2: Always start with the obvious. Try using the self test on the PCB or in the test menu if the monitor is working. Input and output tests will tell you if certain things are functioning properly. Find a manual for the game online and look for troubleshooting tips inside of it. If the manufacturer is still in business don’t be afraid to give them a call. Look for places that look burned or have loose wires or connections.

Step 3: Use a multimeter. Don’t trust your eyes, trust your meter. Check for blown fuses. Read the manual for your meter or find one online. There are many things you can use your meter for from simple tests down to the component level.

Step 4: Check all wiring. Do some basic continuity checks with your meter and make sure you have good connections. The wiring harness can be a common place for issues as previous owners might have flexed the wires or mishandled them. Trace down the wires using the connector on the harness as a test point.

Step 5: Ask for help! If you are ever reach a point where you don’t feel comfortable, it’s a good idea to ask for assistance. There is no shame in asking a question only in being afraid to ask! Make sure you have as much information as possible when asking for help. Information like the name of the game, the manufacturer and time period are very helpful to someone trying to assist you. Please feel free to leave a comment on our site or email us with your question. We will try to assist you in any way possible.

Always make a commitment to doing the job right. Don’t take shortcuts or do it half way. Your arcade game deserves better and you will be glad in the end you took the time to do it right. Good luck with your projects in the future and again please feel free to leave any questions or suggestions in the comments section below.

There has been an influx of arcade documentaries released in the last several years. I have been watching some of these documentaries over the last couple of weeks and decided to share some of my thoughts about them. While most of us think of documentaries (in general) as boring, I found all of these to be quite interesting and entertaining.

The King of Kong: A Fistful of Quarters (2008): This documentary covers the controversy over the Donkey Kong high score between Steve Wiebe and Billy Mitchell. This is by far my favorite arcade related documentary. Even though it is a little bias in it’s portrayal of the individuals involved, it is still a great story and very entertaining. A must watch for anyone who is even remotely interested in arcade games.

Buy The King of Kong: A Fistful of Quarters from Amazon.com now!

Chasing Ghosts: Beyond the Arcade (2007): I look at Chasing Ghosts as a prequel of sorts to The King of Kong: A Fistful of Quarters. This documentary gives you insight on the early days of arcade games and high scores. It talks heavily about Twin Galaxies and the Life Magazine article from the 1980s. In the article, a picture was taken of each high score champion in front of their respective arcade game. You will recognize the picture from the article if you’ve seen the The King of Kong. Overall, I found it very interesting and well worth watching.

They were showing Chasing Ghosts on Showtime for a brief period, however, I believe that they have not shown it for a while. Might have to wait for a DVD to come out to see this one.

High Score (2006): High Score, much like The King of Kong, follows the accomplishments of a gamer at a particular game. In this case, Bill Carlton attempts to topple the twenty year-old record on the Atari classic Missile Command. In order to get the 80 million points required, he must play the game for over two days straight on one quarter. A very fascinating look at what it takes to achieve a high score on an arcade game.

Watch High Score for free on Hulu now!

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TILT: The Battle to Save Pinball (2007): This is one of the most interesting documentaries I’ve seen in a while. TILT tells the story of the final days leading up to the demise of the pinball division at Williams. It focuses heavily on the Pinball 2000 brand which was developed as their last ditch effort to make pinball profitable again. A great documentary that discusses an exciting piece of pinball history. Highly recommended.

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Pinball Passion (2008): As the description for Pinball Passion states, this documentary takes you to the heart of pinball. You will see interviews with pinball designers and programmers as well as the collections of many pinball enthusiasts. It also takes you on a behind the scenes look inside Stern Pinball Inc. This documentary is kind of a shorter version of Special When Lit but has some items that are unique to it as well. Recommended for pinball enthusiasts.

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Special When Lit – A Pinball Documentary (2010): Special When Lit really focuses on the rise and fall of pinball. Just like in Pinball Passion, you will see interviews with collectors, designers and champion players from across the globe. This film features some of the more extreme pinball collectors out there along with some recognizable characters from the pinball scene. Good documentary but has some parts that seem to drag at bit. Definitely recommended for pinball fans.

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I Got Next (2008): I Got Next discusses the details of the competitive fighting game scene in North America. While the lingo may be a little foreign to those of you who are not into these games, it is still a very enthralling documentary. I Got Next is different from the others in that it is freely available from their website. Definitely worth watching for anyone who has at least some knowledge of fighting games.

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Well, those are some of our recommended documentaries about arcade games. Are there any documentaries that we left out? Please leave some comments below and let us know.

Even though our main focus on this site is arcade repair, we would like to take a break for a moment and talk about some arcade related books. I know that many of you are collectors and are generally interested in learning more about arcade games. In this post, we will talk about some books that are not necessarily related to arcade repair but are related to arcade games in general.

Project Arcade: Build Your Own Arcade Machine (John St. Clair, 2004): Project Arcade is a great book for people who are interested in building a PC-based arcade game from scratch. It goes step by step taking you from designing your cabinet to how to set up your PC. Highly recommended if you plan on building a M.A.M.E. arcade machine and don’t know where to start. Comes with a good resource CD as well.

Buy Project Arcade: Build Your Own Arcade Machine from Amazon.com now!

Official Price Guide To Classic Video Games: Console, Arcade, And Handheld Games (David Ellis, 2004): This book is a a very handy reference for those of you who are just getting started in the hobby. While the pricing guide part of this book may be a little off, the content is very interesting. It has insightful articles about several classic console and arcade games. Great read and a good starting point for arcade collecting beginners.

Buy Official Price Guide to Classic Video Games from Amazon.com now!

Arcade Mania: The Turbo-charged World of Japan’s Game Centers (Brian Ashcraft & Jean Snow, 2009): Arcade Mania talks about the history of the Japanese arcade scene. This book contains lots of great interviews with game makers such as Yu Suzuki from Sega. It also covers a lot about how the Japanese arcade scene has influenced western gaming from Space Invaders all the way to Rock Band. A great book and an excellent read.

Buy Arcade Mania: The Turbo-charged World of Japan’s Game Centers from Amazon.com now!

The Ultimate History of Video Games: From Pong to Pokemon–The Story Behind the Craze That Touched Our Lives and Changed the World (Steven L. Kent, 2001): This is the one of the most complete books on the overall history of video games available. You’re probably familiar with Kent if you have seen many video game documentaries or read many books on this subject. The Ultimate History of Video Games is definitely his best work. It’s crammed full of information with tons of interviews and quotes from the guys that were there. Very informative and highly recommended.

Buy The Ultimate History of Video Games from Amazon.com now!

High Score!: The Illustrated History of Electronic Games (Rusel DeMaria & Johnny L. Wilson, 2003): If you’re look for something a little more light than The Ultimate History of Video Games then this is for you. High Score covers very similar material to the aforementioned book but without the in depth detail. It’s a great book for those of you who have kids and want to share this history with them. I personally like the detailed pictures found throughout the book. An ideal book to get an overview of video game history.

Buy High Score!: The Illustrated History of Electronic Games from Amazon.com now!

Arcade Fever: The Fan’s Guide to The Golden Age of Video Games (John Sellers, 2001): While this book has gotten mixed reviews since it’s release, I think that it does a great job of rekindling your nostalgia for how the arcades used to be. It also does a great job of breaking down what was going on in history while we were originally playing these great games. A fun book for those who want to take a trip down memory lane to relive their old arcade memories.

Buy Arcade Fever: The Fan’s Guide to The Golden Age of Video Games from Amazon.com now!

Zap: The Rise and Fall of Atari (Scott Cohen, 1987): Even though I really didn’t play video games back when Atari was king, I’m still fascinated by the story of the company. Zap explains what went on at Atari from it’s meteoric rise to it’s ultimate fall. It also gives you great historical insight into the personalities that ran the company. Even though the book is kind of dated now, it’s still very interesting read.

Buy Zap: The Rise and Fall of Atari from Amazon.com now!

Gaming Hacks: 100 Industrial-Strength Tips & Tools (Simon Carless, 2002): I guess I should be forthcoming as to why I have included this book on the list. It just happens to contain a tip on my freeware application MARRT (MAME Adult Rom Removal Tool). Besides that, however, Gaming Hacks covers a very diverse range of topics from arcade games all the way to modern consoles. Pretty much everyone will find a tip that they can use regardless of the type of gamer they are. A great collection of tips and very useful.

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Well, those are some of our recommended books about arcade games. Are there any books that we left out? Please leave some comments below and let us know.

Those of you who are just now getting into the electronics part of arcade repair might wonder about where to start. This post contains some recommended books that will help you understand the basic electronics principles that are applied in arcade games.

The Book: A Guide To Electronic Game Operation And Servicing (Atari, 1980): This book was written by Atari in 1980 specifically to teach people who had bought their arcade games how to repair them. As you might expect, The Book assumes that you have little to no knowledge about electronics so it’s great for beginners. While finding an original copy of The Book is near impossible, you can buy photocopies of it from eBay or you can download the PDF file at http://pdf.textfiles.com/technical/atari_thebook.pdf or at http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Atari_TM-129_The_Book.pdf.

Getting Started In Electronics (Forrest M. Mims III, 2003): Many people consider this one of the best books for electronics novices. Forrest Mims uses simple explanations to help you understand even the most complex electonics ideas. This book includes some great examples and sample schematics that will have you well on your way to becoming an electronics expert. Highly recommended.

Buy Getting Started In Electronics from Amazon.com now!

Electronics For Dummies (Gordon McComb & Earl Boysen, 2005): Much like Getting Started In Electronics, Electronics For Dummies is a book for novices that explains electronics in a simple way. Gordon McComb & Earl Boysen lay the groundwork for your electronics knowledge so that you don’t get completely lost when you move to more advanced electronics books. There is a 2009 edition of this book coming out soon but the 2005 edition should work fine for most of you.

Buy Electronics For Dummies (2005) from Amazon.com now!

Buy Electronics For Dummies (2009) from Amazon.com now!

There Are No Electrons: Electronics For Earthlings (Kenn Amdahl, 1991): Besides having an interesting title, There Are No Electrons: Electronics For Earthlings has a very unique approach to teaching basic electronics principles. One review I read compared this to a Mr. Wizard like approach and I would tend to agree. Comparing electrons to little green men (greenies) on their way to a killer party and capacitors to parking lot sized traffic jams is unorthodox but actually helps in comprehension. This book is a great complement to the more conventional books we’ve talked about here.

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The Art Of Electronics (Paul Horowitz & Winfield Hill, 1989): So you’ve gone through the rest of these books and now you’re ready to move on to something a bit more advanced. Well, you’ve found it! The Art Of Electronics, written in 1989, changed the way that electronics was taught. One of the great things about the book is that you don’t have to be a mathematical genius to understand it. It’s a great book for someone who feels that they are past the beginner phase but not quite yet a pro. Definitely worth checking out.

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Well, those are some of our recommended books on electronics repair. Now that you know ours, what are yours? Do you have a book you would like to recommend to beginners in electronics? Please leave some comments below and let us know.

Let’s face it, it’s not like you can go down to Home Depot and ask the guy if he has a joystick for a Ms. Pac Man machine. Odds are that he might not even know what a Ms. Pac Man is! There are some places, however, that carry many of the parts that you will need when repairing arcade games.

Happ Controls (http://www.happcontrols.com): Happ Controls is probably the most well known arcade parts manufacturer in the world. Many of the parts from other dealers, such as Bob Roberts and Arcadeshop Amusements, are actually Happ Controls parts but they get a discount because they buy in such large quantities.

Betson Enterprise (http://www.betson.com): Betson Enterprise, like Happ Controls, is also an arcade parts manufacturer. While they seem to be a little more expensive than their competition, they have some convenient warehouse locations so you tend to get your parts faster.

The Real Bob Roberts (http://www.therealbobroberts.net): Bob Roberts has been selling arcade parts to enthusiasts for years. Even going through Hurricane Katrina has not stopped him from providing top quality parts at discounted prices. If you want to use a Credit Card or Paypal for payment, however, you might want to move on to another dealer.

Arcadeshop Amusements (http://www.arcadeshop.com): Arcadeshop Amusements is a great place to get arcade parts. They pretty much sell everything related to arcade games. You can even order a full cabinet kit in case you want to build a brand new game. Unlike Bob Roberts, they do accept credit cards. Definitely check them out.

Twisted Quarter (http://www.twistedquarter.com): Twisted Quarter is a great vendor for just about anything you’re looking for. They have great prices on power supplies, game locks, joysticks, monitors and lights just to name a few things. Their web site is easy to navigate and they take Paypal for your convenience.

Mikes Arcade (http://www.mikesarcade.com): Mikes Arcade is a great vendor for those hard to find Nintendo parts. They are also an excellent technical support resource. They offer joysticks, trackballs, control panels, JAMMA adapters along with our favorite item: the Nintendo to standard monitor inverter board.

Cointech Gameroom Supplies (http://stores.shop.ebay.com/COINTECH-GAMEROOM-SUPPLIES): Some good friends of ours located in the Dallas area, Cointech Gameroom Supplies is yet another dealer for Happ Controls parts. They have an eBay store but you can also check out their physical location at Six Flags Mall in Arlington, TX.

Well, those are some of the popular places to buy arcade parts from. Where do you buy your parts from? Did we leave one of your favorite dealers out? Please leave some comments below and let us know.

So, you want to repair arcade games but you don’t know where to start? Well, it might be good to make sure that you have the tools you need before you get started. In this post, we are going to discuss what tools you will need if you plan on repairing arcade games. We are going to go into detail on each of these tools and give you links to where you can buy these items if you are interested. If you would prefer a quick overview of this post instead of reading the whole thing, you will find two videos embedded after the break. Let’s get started shall we…

Your First Arcade Toolbox (Part One)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5W3Rg_BA6s

Your First Arcade Toolbox (Part Two)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2tdQ_9qmEc

 
 
Tools Featured In Your First Arcade Toolbox (Part One)
 
Digital Multimeter: A digital multimeter is a must-have tool when you want to repair arcade games or any electronic devices for that matter. Make sure you get one that provides a beep when testing continuity. We’ll talk about digital multimeters and how to use them more in future posts.

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Nut Drivers (SAE and Metric): Most of the arcade games that you encounter are going to use 1/4″ nuts with bolts somewhere on the cabinet. The most common place for this is on the control panel to hold down a piece of plexiglass. While SAE is more common, if an arcade game is from another country it might use metric instead which is why it’s always good to have both.

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Buy the Stanley 7-Piece Metric Nut Driver Set from Amazon.com now!

Needle Nose Pliers: Needle nose pliers are a necessity when working on arcade games. Many times you will come across a tight situation where regular pliers just won’t cut it. Make sure you have a pair of needle nose pliers in these situations as they will save you a lot of time and probably a headache as well.

Wire Cutters: The first time you open up an arcade game from an auction you never know what’s going to be in there. It’s always good to be prepared with a pair of wire cutters so you can clean up any extra wires or rewire problem areas.

Buy the Stanley 4-Piece Pliers Set from Amazon.com now!

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Monitor Discharging Tool: The combination of a lamp/extension cord and alligator clips might seem pretty simple, however, it can save your life! Just cut and strip the cord, solder alligator clips to each end, tape up the ends where you soldered and your done! Make sure to get a long, insulated flat head screwdriver to attach this to when discharging a monitor. Watch our post on how to Safely Discharge An Arcade Monitor before trying it yourself!

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Wire Strippers: From time to time you might find a wire in an arcade game that doesn’t have enough bare wire showing to reattach it to it’s correct location. Stripping the wire with a good pair of wire strippers can give you that extra bit that you need.

Buy the Automatic Wire Stripper from Amazon.com now!

Molex Crimpers: Many arcade games contain Molex connectors in them. These connectors contain pins that must be crimped around the wire. These crimpers are essential to making sure that you crimp these pins around the wires correctly.

Buy the D-Sub Pin Crimper from Radioshack.com now!

Electrical Tape / Flashlight: Remember, DO NOT get cheap electrical tape! It will come back to bite you! Stick to the good brands like Scotch or Duct and you’ll be fine. Also, remember that arcade games are dark so keep a good flashlight with you at all times.

Buy the Scotch Electrical Tape Set from Amazon.com now!

Buy the Stanley Tripod LED Flashlight from Amazon.com now!

 
 
Tools Featured In Your First Arcade Toolbox (Part Two)
 
Soldering Iron: Make sure that you get a decent soldering iron even if you don’t plan on using it all of the time. It’s good to stick to major brands like Weller and Metcal when selecting an iron. For the beginning arcade technician, I recommend the Weller SP40LK Soldering Iron Kit. This iron is the one I started out with and is great for basic arcade repair. The kit also comes with multiple tips to make sure the iron fits any task.

Buy the Weller SP40LK Soldering Iron Kit from Amazon.com now!

Solder (Rosin Core): When you go shopping for solder, you will notice that there are many types and sizes available. Make sure you get rosin core solder in a small diameter (preferably 0.05″ to 0.062″). The amount that you get (usually in ounces) is up to you. NEVER use acid core solder for electronics!!!

Buy the American Terminal Rosin Core Solder (4 oz) from Amazon.com now!

Soldering Station: It’s also a good idea to pick up a soldering station along with your soldering iron. This will give you a safe place to store your soldering iron while it’s hot. Most soldering stations also come with a sponge so you can remove excess solder from the tip. Make sure that you wet the sponge before you start using it!

Buy the Cables To Go – Soldering Station from Amazon.com now!

Desoldering Iron: Desoldering irons can be very handy for quick removal of parts from an arcade board. They are basically the combination of a soldering iron and desoldering pump. You can buy the desoldering pump separately, however, having a desoldering iron is more convenient than having to use the soldering iron/desoldering pump combination in most cases.

Buy the ECG 45 Watt Desoldering Iron from Amazon.com now!

Desoldering Braid (Solder Wick): When you are trying to desolder delicate parts on an arcade board, desoldering braid or solder wick typically works better than a desoldering iron. It allows you to get into tight places where a desoldering iron might be too big for the task.

Buy Tech Spray No-Clean Desoldering Wick from Amazon.com now!

Well, now you know what to put in your first arcade toolbox, however, knowing what to put in your toolbox is just the beginning. Watch for more posts and videos on how to use these tools to diagnose and repair your arcade issues. Good luck on repairing your arcade games in the future.

While the look of arcade cabinets has changed over the years, the general makeup of the parts has remained basically the same. For those of you who are new to arcade game collecting, you might not be familiar with the general terms that are used relatively frequently for these parts. The diagram above is of a classic Mario Bros cabinet. You can click on this diagram if you would like to see a larger version of this image. We will be using this diagram to identify these parts. You will find a brief description of each part below.

Marquee: A piece of plastic or glass which has the arcade game name and related artwork printed on it. It is typically located on the top of the game and is usually backlit by a florescent light.

T-Molding: Flexible, plastic trim that covers the leading wood edges of an arcade cabinet. While a simple black t-molding is used on most games, t-molding is available in many colors including orange (found on Pac Man cabinets), white (found on Donkey Kong cabinets) and chrome.

Bezel: A piece of cardboard or plastic that surrounds the monitor. This can also refer to a glass or plastic item that covers the monitor. Bezels usually contain artwork relating to the game. Other names include monitor glass and monitor shroud.

Monitor: The screen that is used for viewing the game play of an arcade game. It is typically a combination of a CRT (Cathode Ray (Picture) Tube) and a chassis (a PCB (Printed Circuit Board) that powers a CRT). The most common monitor sizes are 19″, 25″, and 33″.

Sideart: Artwork located on the side and/or front of an arcade cabinet. It can either be a large sticker or artwork that has been directly painted on the cabinet.

Control Panel: The panel that houses the main controls for the arcade game. Some of these controls include joysticks, trackballs, and buttons. Older games typically have a big sticker known as a CPO (Control Panel Overlay) that contains artwork and instructions related to the game.

Speaker (Grill): The object that produces sound for an arcade game. Arcade cabinets typically have speaker grills that designate where the speaker is in relation to the cabinet.

Service Door: The metal door (usually black) on the front of the cabinet that accepts coins for game play. It is made up of lights that illuminate the price of the game and a coin mechanism that is designed to verify the right coins are being inserted.

Coin Door: The metal door (usually black) on the front of the cabinet that contains a bucket where the coins get stored until pulled by the operator. Some people refer to both the service door and the coin door as the coin door collectively.

Now that you know the major parts of an arcade cabinet, you should be able to more effectively communicate the part of that special game you need. Good luck in restoring your arcade cabinets in the future.